Good suggestions @Brett and @Londondrz. I’d forgotten about Le Querce’s “eat at home” option. This is their menu:
Given they have a 48 hour order time, I think there still may be room for the casual pop-in shop I described earlier.
And as @Londondrz mentioned, Gousto (and also HelloFresh) are both great for convenience and inspiration. I amassed a whole book of recipe cards from using both services. Started feeling guilty about all the packaging though - a huge amount of card and plastic in each delivery (especially on all the tiny single-use portions of herbs and spices).